On a chilly winter's night when you need something that sticks to your ribs, go for some hearty Deutsche Küche. German cuisine to me is an unexpected favorite, somewhat familiar but somewhat unknown. On most occasions I head over to Suppenküche in Hayes Valley or sometimes Walzwerk in the Mission. These places have fantastic menus, but sometimes making German dishes in your own kitchen can be just as nice.
Beer Bratwurst with Leek Mashed Potatoes and Caramelized Onion Gravy
4-6 pork bratwurst
1 white onion, sliced
1 cup good lager beer
1.5 cups beef or pork stock
4 russet potatoes, quartered
2 leeks, washed and finely chopped
2 tablespoons half & half cream
4 tablespoons flour
2 tablespoons butter
Tons of brown mustard
The word sausage is derived from Old French saussiche, from the Latin word salsus, meaning salted. In German it is wurst. Bratwurst comes in more than 40 regional variations in Germany and is frequently accompanied by mustard and bread.
For this dish, sauté sliced onions in a trickle of olive oil for a few minutes until beginning to caramelize. Pour in the beer and stock, bringing to a simmer. Add the bratwurst. It will take 18 to 20 minutes on a slow simmer to cook the meat thoroughly. Use a pair of tongs to turn them for even cooking.
Meanwhile, bring 2 quarts of salted water to a boil. Throw in the potatoes and cook until they are soft when you put a knife or fork through. While the potatoes cook, sauté the finely chopped leeks in a separate pan with a little olive oil. When the potatoes are fully cooked, drain the water, mash, then stir in the leeks and cream.
In a small pan, melt the butter and sprinkle in the flour. With a wooden spoon, stir the mixture over low heat until it becomes a bubbly, light colored roux. When the bratwurst are cooked, remove, then turn up the heat and scrape in the roux. Stir a few minutes until it thickens.
Finally, serve up the bratwurst on top of some leek mashed potatoes topped with caramelized onion gravy with plenty of brown mustard.
